Specially
written for "Poultry" - by H. Duncan, October 1st, 1938
I
take it that any breeder or prospective breeder of Pekin bantams
will regard type as the first essential to consider; without type
the Pekin loses nearly of its beauty. Correct type may be described
as resembling a square block with the corners cut off - in other
words, a ball....
The head of the breeding pen
The
points I require in a stud male to head a breeding pen are: short and
broad in back, as full and broad in the saddle as possible, heavily
feathered on the thighs and below the hock joint. The feathering around
the hock joint is of special importance for so long as there is an abundance
of feather in this area there is not likely to be a problem in toe feathering.
The cushion should rise rise from the back, ending with the curve of
the tail feathering.
The female side of the pen
The
stock hens should show curves, which are a feature of Pekins, still
more plainly than the male. Both tail and hock feathers should be very
soft in the quill, with a disposition to curl inwards. I always endeavor
to counter-balance any defects in a stock fowl by the presence of good
points in those of the opposite sex. The weight of the hen should not
exceed 20oz
Better in second season
Pekins,
particularly the males, do not acquire their full shape or abundance
of feather during the first year. The pullets often improve greatly
in cushion, becoming more full and round.
Cleanliness an important point
After
the breeding pen is chosen, the bantams comprising the pen should be
well dusted with insect powder, and their legs should be touched with
camphorated oil to keep down the scaly leg. This should be done once
monthly, whether it appears to be required or not. Some breeders trim
the tails, vents and hocks of their stock Pekins. Providing they are
kept clean and free from insects this practice is extremely unnecessary,
as I have proved to my own satisfaction many times.
Guard against dampness
Pekin
chicks should be confined in a dry pen for the first two weeks,
if possible in such a position that rays of sunshine can enter
it. After a fortnight, the chicks should be allowed to run out
on grass, but it is important to ensure that they are returned
together pen before the sun sets. Should the grass get wet through
the night the chicks should be kept in until it has dried. More
Pekins die as a result of dampness than any other cause. The chicks
are handicapped in the direction through possessing to much foot
feathering. Once the foot feathering gets wet, it takes a considerable
amount of time for it to dry.
Blue
Female
Observe care in feeding
Pekin
chicks are hardy and will thrive on ordinary chick feed from the earliest
stages. Avoid feeding mash during the growing period since it very often
results in "sour - crop" I provide dry breadcrumbs for the
first day the chicks are out of the nest, commencing with the chick
mixture on the second day. The chicks receive as much as they can eat.
I regard it as a mistake to allow many hours to elapse before the first
feed is given. When feed is made available from the beginning it will
be found that the chicks eat a little at a time, whereas hungry chicks
certainly overload their crops. Finely cut spinach fed once weekly and
a raw meat bone is provided once or twice a week for the youngsters
to pick at. After six weeks I feed wheat to the the extent of of one-quarter
of the total rashion, gradually increasing it until the chicks are weaned
from the original chick mixture on a ration comprised of three parts
of wheat and one part of cracked maize. The provision of plenty of food
hastens maturity and early laying, which of course checks growth.
Chief factors in success
I regard
the provision of ample good food and cleanliness as the chief factors
contributing to my success with Pekins. About every three weeks I dust
my chicks with flee powder. I find this assists in the growth and luster
of feather in addition to keeping down vermin. If one procures good
stock at the commencement, success will depend on individual management.
Importance of weight
Never
waste time and entrance feed by benching a Pekin that is overweight.
Success is much more likely to be ensured by keeping below the limit.
My recent Brisbane National winning hen, which I regard as the best
Pekin I have ever bred, weighs 18oz. My heaviest male bird weighs
23oz. The abundant plumage of these bantams make them appear hevier.
A word to novice exhibitors: do be discouraged by adverse reports
on an exhibit, particularly when a competent judge has seen fit
to award it a prize. Study the standard,
visit the shows for yourself and mix with acknowledged
good breeders and it will not be long before you acquire a sound
knowledge of the finer points which reveal the difference between
and ordinary specimen and a champion.
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The head of the breeding pen