Broodiness was at one time the scourge of the poultry industry - backyard and commercial. Hens would go broody at the drop of a hat, but the trait has become more or less bred out with the development of the modern hybrid. The widespread use of cages in the commercial industry has also helped.

Left to their own devices, hens will lay a clutch of eggs and then sit to hatch them. Even the domesticated bird, unless she is caged, will seek out he odd corner for a nest and think in terms of raising a family. Old habits die hard, but if management is good, broodiness can be kept at a distance.

Good management in this context means correct feeding, well ventilated houses and nest boxes, and frequent egg collection. Make sure the rations are correctly balanced with the right amount of grain and do not continue to feed growers mash after the birds have come into lay.

Stuffy, over warm houses and next boxes will also bring on the broodiness so leave ventilators open in the summer. Although nest boxes should be draught free, a balance must be struck between a hwlong gale and a broody inducing fug.

One of the surest methods of turning a hen broody is to leave a few eggs on her nest - in fact china eggs are especially made for this purpose.

The first sign of broodiness in a bird is that she will stay on her nest when you approach. Put a hand over her and she will fluff her feathers up and try to peck at you.

Hens which are about to lay an egg will behave this way, so the only sure sign of a broody is that she will stay on the nest all night and the nest stays clean.

To prevent broodiness you can put the bird in a cage with 24 hours with no food but as much water as she can drink. After a day and a night let her out and give her some feed, then repeat this until she decides to go back to laying.

below: picture of a pen to put unwanted broodies

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