1) Prepare the run ‘End Panel’ by cutting two lengths of batten equal to the width of the house plus 0.5 cm. These will be the top and bottom rail

2) Cut two ‘uprights’ to a length that will produce a frame that that goes from the ground to 1 cm under the front of the roof frame

3) Each corner should be fixed by two nails. Drill small pilot holes first to save splitting the wood

4) Selecting four good battens, cut them to equal lenghths to obtain the longest run length possible

5) Selecting four good battens, cut them to equal lenghths to obtain the longest run length possible

6) Also cut two ’transom bars’ the same width as the end panel top and bottom rails. When assembled these will provide the correct spacing and provide run strength against the house.

7) Once again, using the house lid as a work bench, screw on offcuts of board material to produce as many ‘mesh trim’ as possible

8) Cut strips with a hand saw 8 to 10 mm wide

9) The ‘mesh trim’ will be used to keep the run mesh in place by using 20 or 25 mm panel pins instead of a staple gun

10) Starting from one corner, gently tack the ‘mesh trim’ to hold the mesh in approximate position. Any errors can then easily be corrected

11) In this example 10 mm wire netting is used. This would be suitable for ‘Hatching chicks’ in the Broody House and is easily cut to shape with ‘Electrical Side Cutters’

12) Continue to work along the edges cutting the the final strip to size to form a neat finish

13) The ‘mesh trim’ strips can now be fully hammered home. This is best done with a heavy metal object placed underneath. A hammer would be suitable. If the panel pins are too long they will then be neatly ‘cleated’ over. Add as many panel pins as you think will give a good hold on the mesh

16) Fix the bottom ‘transom bar’ in position with two nails or screws through pilot holes. Position it so that it is 2.5 cm from the end of the run. This then forms the amount of ‘engagement’ with the House

17) Fix the bottom ‘transom bar’ in position with two nails or screws through pilot holes. Position it so that it is 2.5 cm from the end of the run. This then forms the amount of ‘engagement’ with the House

18) If you have done everything correctly there should be a snug fit on the sides of the run to the sides of the house. The top ‘transom bar’ should be below the roof level and the bottom ‘transom bar’ should fit neatly under the door. If required make ‘fit up adjustments’ as necessary.

19) There should be no real need to fix the run to the house as it is unlikely that bantams can exert enough force to part them. If in doubt fix in place with screws.

20) Using the previous techniques. Make a run cover panel with a width that is approximately 5mm less than the new overall width of the assembled run. This will allow it to slide easily and be supported by the run. Make it long enough to match the length from the roof joist to the end of the run.

21) As this is the biggest run panel you might like to add an optional ‘centre strut’ for further strength

1) Acrylic ‘frame sealant’ is easier to work with and cheaper than Silicone

2) You may find decorators filling knives useful and an old ‘wet’ cloth is essential for wiping hands and tools

3) First work on the underside of the roof. Run a thin bead of sealant along each and every joint. Also apply some sealant to any nail holes and wood knots. Work the sealant in with a filling knife or finger.

4) Using the wet cloth, rub lightly over the sealant in small circular motions ensuring that you do not remove too much sealant. This will improve the finish and flatten out the sealant and forming a wider ‘skin’ on the seal. The seal will then be barely seen when painted.

5) Repeat the sealant operation on the top of the lid and then around each side of the house in turn.

6) Wait for the sealant to form skin. You can now paint the unit with either fence paint or any left over ‘external’ paint that you may have available.