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Chicken Coop Plans

My idea was to build a chicken coop that would look good in an urban setting. The coop is lightweight and portable to allow easy movement around the yard or to a new neighborhood

 

Firstly - the materials list:

Wood
4 - 1/2 CDX plywood 5 - 3/8 exterior grade siding, T-111 or equivalent.
3 - 8 ft. 2X4.
3 - 8 ft. 2X3.
20 - 8 ft. 2X2.
126 ft rough 1X2 trim.
5 ft rough 1X3 trim.
1 - 8 ft 1X4

Hardware
35 Sq. ft. roofing.
16 ft. 6 in. flashing.
4 ft. 24 in. wide 1/4 hardware cloth.

Misc
8 - 2X3 galvanized hinges.
2 - 2 in. barrel latches.
1 - 3 in hasp.
Titebond II or other moisture resistant glue
4 - Spring hooks.
Roofing nails, 3 in wood screws, 6p galvinized box nails.
I like square drive screws because of the much better grip with the driver.

Hand tools
Tape
Square
Hammer

Power tools
Circular saw
Cordless Drill Driver

Optional tools
Table saw - The table saw is not necessary but makes some cuts easier.
Pnuematic nailer - Makes setting nails easier of a bad wrist.

Notes on my choices.

  • The use of rough cut material is mostly for looks.
  • For the base I used 2X4 studs. These are in ground contact and will rot but I do not like to use treated lumber around animals. Redwood or other rot resistant wood would also work but is more expensive.
  • 2X2s were choosen for the frame for weight concerns. In a structure this size, the plywood sheathing provides most of the strength. Where I was worried about the strength, I used 2X3s.
  • 2X4s are used for the base as these will take a beating from moving the coop and any rot.
  • I assembled the frame with screws. Galvanized nails would work but with the light weight lumber it is a pain to keep things in place under the hammer blows, this is here an air nailer would be invaluable. Screws will hold better than nails and a cordless drill driver makes quick work setting screws.
  • The siding and trim are nailed to the frame
  • For roofing, I used rooled roofing because it is cheap and easy to use.

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