The true skills and methods used in these
plans need to be seen - do this by clicking the links to view
diagrams to support the text
The Sheathing Stage:
The sheathing is next. To cut
out the front openings for the nest boxes and door, tack
the front sheathing in place. Use small galvanized box nails
and put one in each corner of the sheet, leave 1/4 in. of
the nail exposed so it can be easily removed. Start at the
bottom then shove everything square before setting nails
near the top. Make sure all your overlaps are correct them
mark the openings.
Mark around the openings from the inside,
remove the sheathing, then cut out the openings. Replace
the sheathing and nail on all studs, cross pieces, and rafters
using a 6 in. nail schedule. Set several nails along the
bottom then push the wall square before setting some nails
near the top.
If you have a Roto-Zip tool, there is an
easier way to cut out the openings. Completly nail the front
sheathing in place. Drill a small hole in one corner of
each opening. Choose a hole size that allows clearence for
the roto zip bit. From the outside cut the openings using
the inside of the studs and cross pieces as a guide.
Set the removed pieces aside for use later as door sheathing.
Cut a length of 1X3 trim board the exact width of the bottom
on the entry door opening and nail in place as the stoop.
|
 |
| This is the coop with the front paneled and openings cut
out.
Do the same for the ends. The only openings are the entrance
doors. Now is a good time to think about covering the openings
of the eves. In a hot climate you may want to use hardware
cloth to improve ventilation after the seathing and roof
panels are in place. In colder climates you can close the
eves off by cutting notches in the wall sheating to clear
the rafters. Assemble the roof panels using galvanized nails
with a 4 in. nailing schedule.
The coop paneled and ready for the nest boxes. The sheathing
and roof add significant strength. |
 |
The Nest Box Stage:
The nest boxes are designed for a flock of up to
8 chickens. They open from the top for easy cleaning and egg retrieval.
The tops latch closed to keep predators other nosey beings out.
If you are not planning on raising chickens for eggs, the nest
boxes can be eliminated. 
click
for picture
Refer to the drawings for dimensions. The nest boxes
were built using a single sheet of 1/2 plywood. Joints are butted,
glued, and nailed. Galvanized box nails are used to hold things
together while the glue sets. Titebond II glue works well where
the glue will be exposed to moisture.
click
for picture
Start by cutting a 10 3/4 wide piece of the end
of a sheet of 1/2 CDX plywood. This will be the two nest bottom
boards Measure the width of the nest box cutouts then cut two
bottom boards from the 10 3/4 wide plywood exactly the width of
the openings. Cut a piece of 1X2 to the same length. Glue the
1X2s along the front edge of the bottom boards. Set the bottom
edge of the 1X2 flush with the bottom side of the botton board.
This provides a 1 inch lip to help prevent eggs from rolling out
of the nest. Cut a piece of 1X4 the length of the opening top.
click
for picture
The back of the nest is next. Cut a 15 1/8 inch
piece off the 1/2 inch CDX plywood. Cut two sections exactly the
same length as the bottom boards. Bevel the top of the back to
match the slope of the lid.
click
for picture
Now for the sides and dividers. You will make three
identical for each nest box, two ends and one divider. Cut two
11 1/2 inch pieces from the plywood then cut the two 13 inch pieces.
Cut a 26 inch piece from one end of each of the 13 inch wide pieces
and set them aside for the next box lids. Rip the remaining pieces
to 11 1/2 inches wide. You will be able to make two end pieces
from each long 11 1/2 inch wide piece and one from each of the
shorter pieces. Measure the heigth of the openings to determine
the heigth of the sides. Subtract the thickness of the plywood,
remembering that 1/2 inch plywood measures slightly less than
1/2 inch. This becomes the heigth of the front of the nest box,
shown as 17 1/2 inch for an 18 inch opening. Mark the front and
back of the sides on the long side of the plywood pieces. At the
top, mark a flat 1 1/2 inches long. From the end of the flat,
run a mark to the top of the back. At the bottom front mark for
a 3/4 by 1 inch notch. At the top front mark for a 3/4 by 3 1/2
notch. Follow the drawings for the layout and make all 6 identical.
click
for picture
Now for the assembly. Glue and nail the two sides
to the bottom. Glue and nail the divider half way between the
sides. Glue and nail the 1X4 in the top notches then glue and
nail the back in place. Set the nest box in the opening with the
front flush with the framing of the opening. Use screws in the
sides and bottom for ease of dissassembly in the advent the nest
boxes need replacement. If your openings are not exactly square
you may want to assemble the nest box in the opening. Start by
setting the bottom in place. Use several screws along the front.
Set the sides in place using glue and nails along the bottom and
screws into the frame. Set the divider and 1X4 header using glue
and nails and finish with the back.
Here is a picture of the inside of the nest box.
You can see the box and the roosts. The roosts are made from scrap
pieces. One end rests on the cross piece in the wall and the other
rests in a 4 inch long piece of scrap 1X4 screwed to another frame
member.
click
for picture
If you have not already done so. bevel the top of
the back to match the slope of the top of teh nest box. Use the
nest box as a pattern to cut out some scrap T1-11 siding. Nail
this to the outside. Cut 4 pieces of 1X2 trim to 14 inches long.
Bevel both ends to match the slope. Using a 5 foot piece of 1X3
trim, rip the edges to the roof bevel with a final width of 2
inches as shown on the drawing. Cut two pieces 26 inches long
and use to frame the lid. Cover with roofing material and set
aside.
click
for picture
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