Written by Karen M. Johns, this book is intended for
the novice Pekin keeper, we are lucky enough to have a sample
chapter shown below. Firstly, here's an intro into the book by
Karen.....
I began the book as a leaflet to give to
the buyers of my birds as most had no idea of how to keep
pets let alone pekins. Others thought they were just another
form of poultry to be dumped in the muddy pen down the
back with the other breeds. Next I decided to make it
into an article on pekins as I had had some work published.
But it got too big for that. When it was 16,000 words
I thought I would then write a book on indian game but
my son and my partner told me to finish this one properly
first. Little did they realize it then became an obssession
which has plagued me for the last 3 years. It is now more
than 46,000 words with hundreds of photos. I have been
steadily illustrating it for eighteen months now but it
is a slow process as i have moved house just in this time
span 3 times and looks like I have to do it again. This
time it looks like I am going to have to finish it without
having the birds which will be disapointing as by working
with them, selling them and being members of clubs and
showing, one is able to pick up little bits and pieces
to add. Things like photos that illustrate a point (especially
illness and disease and the development of colour patterns)
or I am asked questions that the answer would seem only
logical to me but then I realize that to a beginner what
seems logical is not.
Karen
CHAPTER THREE: Roosters
No matter how ugly or lacking in type, Pekin roosters
care for their hens. This rooster is calling for his hens to come
for bread. He will do this with any little morsal. No matter how
tempting the morsal is a Pekin rooster will often give it to his
hen rather than eat it himself. The more truthful a rooster is
about his calling the more likely his hens will respond to him.
Pekin bantam roosters are charming little animals
full of character and beautiful to look at. It is a shame that
in our modern society there is becoming less and less tolerance
to them and so little is understood about them. The rooster needs
specific care like the rest of the flock. He is not just there
for the creation of chickens but because he performs a certain
role. A Pekin rooster is usually exceptional in his care of the
flock; he organizes things, recognizes danger, alerts everyone
to danger or suspicious activities or something unusual and will
put himself in danger for their protection. He calls for food,
finds nest and tit-bits. He often cares for chickens and herds
the flock off to roost at night. He’ll include you in his
flock presenting you with a juicy grub or hopping on your lap
for a chat.
Pekin roosters will often
tolerate the loving cuddles of little children returning
their affection by calling them to treats. They usually
always allow there hens to eat first.
All roosters crow and there is no stopping them,
some times starting very young, before 2 months old but not loud.
Many people these days are very intolerant to the cocks’
crow regarding it as noise pollution, unnatural or disturbing.
And as a result have lobbied councils to ban them forcing many
to never experience something that our ancestors have experienced
since the dawn of civilization and many who have bred poultry
all their lives to be forced to give them up because of increasing
urbanization and the criminalization of poultry keeping.
Roosters crowing at night can often be caused by
a disturbance like a mouse or other intruder, a light, other crowing
roosters and just because he is what he is, a rooster. A new rooster
or a change in environment will often increase crowing frequency
until they settle in. Some roosters are noisier than others. Once
one rooster starts crowing, they all start, each unable to be
the first to stop. Crowing is the roosters’ way of announcing
his presence to other roosters and hens. Once upon a time one
could listen in the early predawn crowing of the roosters far
into the distance each answering the others call. Now I suppose
we are lucky to hear the haunting call of the curlew or the other
creatures of the night, if they are out there anymore.
Roosters do not lay eggs but sometimes a hen will
crow. This is rare and not usually as loud as a rooster but it
does occur. The hen is normal in all other respects. Where I have
heard it the hen appears agitated about something like being removed
from her usual run.
Roosters have spurs, which are a horny growth on
the lower leg above the back toe, which continually grow. They
are difficult to see on Pekin roosters because of their short
stance and copious feathers. Hens rarely grow spurs and the occasional
rooster may never grow them, because of this and the fact that
some birds spurs grow faster than others and they can to be shortened,
never use their length as a guide to judging the age of a bird.
It is important to check spurs regularly when handling the bird.
If they become too long or sharp or curved in an odd direction
they may cause damage to the hen or the rooster himself. Spurs
should be cut back by half to about 2 centimetres and before they
reach 4 centimetres long.
There are 2 methods of doing this, one is using
a cutting blade on an angle grinder and the other is using a hacksaw
blade. The angle grinder method causes less twisting of the leg
and the heat cauterises the blood vessel, which runs down the
centre of the spurs thus preventing bleeding. In both cases hot
wax to the cut tip will help stop bleeding if it occurs, although
usually bleeding stops itself in a short time. Take care not to
twist the leg during the operation as this may cause joint damage.
After a week or so the spur can be neatened up with some medium
grade sand paper taking care not to rub too much on the centre
where the bleeding occurred. Sandpaper can also be used to round
off sharp tips.
These spurs are too long and will soon cause
the cock bird, if not his hens, problems.
If allowed to grow unchecked they can cause abbesses where
they stick into his body and the death of the bird will
result.
They should be reduced by at least half.
Many roosters are very friendly and enjoy human
company however some can be quite aggressive. There are many reasons
for aggression in roosters. A lot has to do on how the bird is
reared. Usually if the bird is handled gently and regularly and
there is no cause for fear or stress it will respond well to you.
Play-fighting with it when it is a chicken is fine if it ends
gently. Rough handling of a cockerel or other birds in the vicinity
causes fear and fear causes a bird to want to defend itself or
other birds. Young cockerels will always be misguided about their
sexuality especially if locked in a cage by themselves. This should
never be treated with aggression no mater how irritating or painful
it gets.
Roosters that come from yards where they are only
produced for potential showing are often nervous and respond to
fear with aggression. Birds will usually respond well to gentle
talking and slow movements. Hold birds firmly and do not allow
wing flapping. Gentle stroking around the head as well may also
be calming. Never let a bird go if it is struggling, when it has
quietened then let it go slowly. Never chase birds around to catch
them, especially when you are in a hurry. Offer treats regularly
and use the same call when approaching them for food or coming
to their pen so they recognize you and are prepared for you. Within
a couple of weeks birds will get excited when they hear you and
look foreword to your company. It can be a bit hard when you don’t
know what the bird regards as a treat and it is already untrusting
and aggressive, but fine cut grass and bread are usually accepted.
If a bird sees other birds enjoying something it soon learns to
do the same. Give just a little of the treat at a time so that
the bird is looking for more and is encouraged to come closer
to you. This method is also used in pen training for shows. Occasional
some particular lines of Pekins will produce aggressive roosters
but most produce good-natured roosters. Ensure the spurs of aggressive
roosters are kept blunt and if children are involved the rooster
may need to be disposed of. Always supervise young children with
birds and enforce gentleness and respect for all animals.
Keeping more than one rooster together is not a
good idea in a restricted environment. Through this book I shall
reinforce what I say here. Never introduce two mature or semi
mature roosters together as they will fight and the more confined
they are the worse the consequences. Fighting in both roosters
and hens follow the same behaviour pattern but where hens are
just sorting themselves out in the peck order the roosters fight
for control over all the hens and to be the only rooster to mate
with them. Although the winning hen can make life very miserable
for the looser.
Half hearted sparing may one
day turn into the real thing
Severe damage can be caused by fighting
through fences.
Fighting begins by a bird picking at the ground
and eyeing the other. If the other bird responds then it progresses
to the full neck hackles standing out followed by the birds jumping
at or over each other trying to hit the other with its spurs,
even if it doesn’t have any, and pecking at each others
faces. Some battles may be short with one rooster retreating and
thus being chased off or some may go on for varying lengths of
time, finishing for a while for a break and then starting again
a little while later or the next day. Faces of both combatants
may become very bloody and by the following day swelling may cause
temporary impediment of sight. Pieces of wattles and comb may
be torn or ripped off later affecting birds show potential. Fighting
like all stresses also leaves the birds open to disease.
A fight like this will end in blood. If you separate the
roosters they will only return to fight again. This fight
is over hens on free range. The solution was I let the dominant
rooster have the disputed hen and the other settled for hens
in a different part of the yard that the other was not interested
in at the time.