Glossary: A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

CHAPTER THREE: Roosters ......continued

Even though there may seem quite sever loss of blood due to the appearance of the bloodied feathers, injuries are rarely fatal. In long fights both combatants may be so weary it takes all their effort just to hold onto the others wattle. It is best not to allow birds to fight but where roosters are kept together or one gets into a pen with another the inevitable will occur. If a fight does occur usually all that is necessary is to separate birds, clean up faces and make sure they do not get access to each other again. After the birds have rested they start to get back to normal but if the bird is temporarily blinded due to swelling, helping with food and drink maybe necessary until swelling subsides enough to enable the bird to see again. If a Pekin bantam fights with another breed of bird, even a part Pekin, it will usually come off second best and in the case of a more nimble bird and there is no escape it can be killed or seriously injured. When one wins, one looses. The victor will make the losers life very unpleasant.

On the law of averages when hatching chickens one tends to get 50% roosters and 50% hens. With Murphy’s Law (if something can go wrong it will) one gets more roosters than hens, both ways it is too many roosters. Cockerels can be run together up until a certain stage and then it becomes easier to separate them. If the hens are kept out of site they can be kept together for longer. One doesn’t usually separate a flock of cockerels because they are fighting but because of the tendency to try and mate each other which causes stress within the flock.

These three cockerels in the fore ground will soon need separating.

They should already be separated from their sisters, especially if they are confined in a limited space.

If one needs to keep a number of roosters it may be necessary to keep them in batteries of cages similar to those seen at shows but the size that is used to hold the very large fowl if confinement is for the long term. These cages should be situated in a place that considers all their physical needs like cool, warm, free of dust and free from draft. It is best that they can observe what is going on amongst the other fowl so they do not become bored and neglected. They must be checked regularly so that spurs and toenails do not over grow, that faecal material does not collect around their vents, feet and other feathers. Parasites must be controlled and attention paid to nutrition especially if they do not receive sunlight, which is important in producing vitamin D.

This breeder has his roosters confined to small pens but they can still see what is going on around them.

This gives them interest in life and a feeling of responsibility where they keep watch.

These solitary confined roosters should have plenty of wood shavings, which are topped up and changed regularly. Food and water should be in a situation where they are not filled with debris from the activity of the bird or surrounding pens. These containers can be situated on the outside of the pen, somewhat elevated above the cage floor. Access must be easy through a hole at the front of the cage and ensuring room for his large comb.

Other options for a small number of roosters are to pen them singly with a hen or two. Once they have been together for a couple of weeks the hens usually will stay with that rooster. If free ranging groups like this, ensure that it is not necessary for the hens to have to enter another rooster’s territory in search of food, nests shelter or such as this will cause tension and fights, which may also end in the hen changing roosters.

Roosters are kept with their hens in separate cages and allowed out on separate days or times of the day.

Care must be taken that they do not fight through the wire.

Birds can be encouraged to maintain territories with free range without fences and without them interfering with each other. This requires skill and patience of the owner and constant vigilance. Birds should have their own pens for a start, where they can be locked up and return to sleep, nest and feed. The previous paragraph must be adhered to. Distance must be maintained between pens and preferably they cannot see each other due to shrubbery and/ or buildings. Birds should never be encouraged to encroach on another’s territory hence all their needs should be close to their pen, this includes shelter. Birds should be ranged on alternate days to begin with. A rooster without hens will never comply, ever. Do not feed one group in sight of another, as they will all come running. If at first you don’t succeed try again, although some times one may end up ranging birds on alternate days or different times of the day. If all of a roosters hens are broody or he hasn’t a laying hen and there is one in the other flock he will try to get her.

Some other hints to keep birds in territories. The three-hen number is a good number for a rooster to look after, too many and he cannot keep them together, too few and he will seek out others. Try keeping and rearing the same colour together as a rooster finds the most desirable hens are those that are the same colour as the mother that reared him and the group he was reared with. Hence one can have a flock of buffs and a flock of blacks and so on. But again this requires skill of the breeder to manipulate the bird’s behaviour.

If one really wants to keep two roosters together one bird must be subordinate. Allowing a chicken rooster to grow up with the adult does this. However just separating them for a day or the older becoming unwell, or the younger becoming sick of being dominated, may cause sudden fighting. Keeping mixed flocks of roosters and hens is not a good idea as stresses occur and stress opens up access to illness or illnesses becoming worse. It is stressful for a rooster to have to be constantly defending his hens. It is stressful for a hen to be constantly mated or attempted matings by lurking roosters. In this case fertility can also suffer. One cannot expect minimum stress when birds cannot peacefully settle down at night with only the normal expected squabbling for perch room, nor when the main rooster is chasing others off or roosters are dragging hens off the perch or mating broody hens sitting on the nest.

It is best to keep two to three hens per rooster, the larger number if the rooster is young and vigorous. An over vigorous rooster can make one hen miserable and you will notice feathers missing on top of her head or the hen becoming stressed. Other reasons other than a roosters possible youth making him like over zealous with mating hens could be that he is not mating satisfactorily and one or both birds may need to be trimmed more, even if you do not want fertile eggs it will make life easier for all concerned.

Do not keep Pekin hens with larger breed full sized roosters like a Rhode Island Red or such as she could be seriously injured or killed due to the fact they are still the same species and they are just as attracted to each other. It is okay to keep a Pekin rooster with larger varieties of hens and amazingly they will sometimes produce fertile eggs. Other large birds such as turkeys, peacocks and so on can also be aggressive to Pekins causing stress, injury and death.

Roosters will always try their luck trying to get another hen. The above requires skill, patience, constant observation and the knowledge as to whether everything is fine or whether one needs to interfere. Running more than one rooster or the flock territory method does not ensure knowledge of paternity of ones chickens, not only because of the ability for a rooster to mate with his neighbours wives but because ones best birds may not be adequately trimmed thus the lessor quality bird or the ones that are trimmed better will father or mother the chickens.

Roosters will crow and you cannot stop them. The predawn chorus can be very noisy if you have more than one rooster. The only thing one can really do is muffle the noise at night. Daytime noise tends to blend in with the general noises around and appears to be less offensive to those who are intolerant to them. Those poultry keepers who have the finances, maybe a specially designed soundproof house for the roosters. For those of us not so fortunate there are ways. Putting a bird in a cardboard box every evening ensuring there are ventilation holes and then putting the box in another sound reducing area over night and releasing them first thing in the morning. This area can be a house or shed. An old car is also good ensuring the windows are only partially wound up. It is very important to remember ventilation, and cars can get very hot very quickly. It is also important not to forget the bird for not only is it necessary to take extreme care with ventilation and extreme temperatures it is important not to forget the bird as it is very risky locking an animal away without food or water, the result can be a very cruel death. Never leave this job up to a child.

No, these roosters are not off for a drive. They are put in the car at night, which muffles the volume of the crowing.

Roosters do not take long to get used to this form of care and will learn to expect it, becoming very agitated if you forget him. It can mean the difference between owning a rooster or not as in many places one call of complaint to the local authorities by a neighbour can mean the enforced disposal of the rooster. This can be very upsetting as not only would the lack of a rooster spell the end of breeding ones own birds, but many people become very attached to these charming little chaps.

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