56 black
and white photographs. 43 colour photographs. 50 line drawings.
ISBN:
0 906137
30 6
Overview:
Covers
domestic and ornamental breeds for the beginner. Full of practical
tips, it provides information on how to set up a small unit,
managing ponds and streams. Covers all aspects of keeping,
breeding and rearing ducks.
Sample Chapter
All
ducks, whether dabblers, divers or perchers, have the same need
for nutrients in the form of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals
and vitamins; it is merely the proportions and the form in which
they are found or presented that vary. A balanced diet is essential,
for too much of one type of food at the expense of other nutrients
can soon lead to problems. The fact that people often throw bread
to ducks on public park ponds does not mean that this is their
sole diet. This is not to say that bread cannot be given, but
it should be an occasional rather than a regular item. Dried bread
should be broken into small pieces and soaked, for choking is
not unheard of. It is also vital to ensure that any bread
given is free of moulds. The ideal diet is a compound ration with
all the necessary nutrients.
Compound
feeds
Compound feeds normally consist of wheat and maize, with soya
bean meal and soya oil added in order to provide the extra protein
and energy requirements. Minerals and vitamins are also added
to ensure against deficiencies. They are formulated in several
forms, depending on the age of the birds and whether they are
domestic or ornamental breeds. Many ornamentals, for example,
need a higher protein level because they are used to feeding on
insect larvae and crustaceans in the water. Some feeds may contain
fishmeal, but these are usually for ornamentals rather than domestic
breeds. Egg and table breeds are best fed on a free-range or organic
ration that has plant-sourced proteins. This caters for consumer
preference, as well as ensuring that eggs do not acquire a fishy
taste. It is important to remember that the nutritional requirements
vary at different stages. Ducklings require a higher percentage
of protein than adults, so a starter ration of compound crumbs
is advisable. These are available without anti-coccidiostat medications
which some chick crumb rations contain. A starter ration is usually
given for the first few weeks of life.
There are also grower rations for young ducks, to follow on after
the starter crumbs. This type of feed has a reduced level of protein,
normally around 15%, but may be even lower if slow-growing, free-range
table ducks are being reared. Before the breeding season starts,
it is a good idea to feed a breeder ration to domestic and ornamental
breeds. This formulation ensures that the breeding birds are not
lacking in any of the crucial nutrients, and the ducklings are
less likely to suffer from nutritional deficiency complaints.
Laying
Ration for Ducks
(From point of lay)
Protein: 17%
Oil: 3.5%
Fibre: 6.4%
Formulation
varies according to the type of ducks. Some float on water
for ducks such as Eiders, Goldeneyes, Mergansers and Smews.
Ducks
will also take free-range layer’s pellets of the kind formulated
for chickens. They are suitable for all types of ducks, not just
the egg producers, and may indeed be the only type of feed available
in some smaller feed stockists. The morning when the ducks are
released from their house is a good time to give a compound feed.
Placing the pellets in a shallow, heavy-based feeder prevents
them from being wasted by being trampled upon and dispersed into
a mush.
Where
ornamentals are concerned, compound feeds formulated specifically
for them are available from some feed suppliers. (They will also
take poultry layer’s pellets as described above). Some ornamental
feed pellets are made to float on the surface of the water. These
are particularly appropriate for sea ducks, such as Eiders, Goldeneyes,
Mergansers and Smews, that need a higher protein feed to make
up for the lack of fish which they would normally catch.
Natural
and organic compound feeds are available, as distinct from the
normal rations that are produced for the intensive sector. They
are free of artificial additives, antibiotics or egg yolk colouring
agents, a particularly important aspect for those keeping egg
layers or rearing table ducks. It is also important not to give
grower feeds such as those formulated for turkeys, or those produced
for the intensive sector generally, because some of the additives
in them are toxic to ducks. These feeds are also much higher in
protein than is necessary, even for insectivorous ducks. Turkey
feeds, for example, may be as high as 24% protein. Too high a
level can result in an accelerated rate of growth, so that
weak leg or slipped wing problems may develop. There is a list
of specialist feed suppliers in the reference section. Examples
of compound feeds that are available are shown in the table above.
Grain
Grain such as wheat or a mixed grain ration is popular with
ducks, both domestic and ornamental breeds. It is useful to feed
it in the afternoon, particularly when placed on a clean area
of ground. Unlike pellets, the grains will not disintegrate into
a mush and are soon scooped up.
Ornamentals in larger collections are often given their grain
ration in shallow water. This helps to deter wild birds, such
as pigeons and starlings, from helping themselves. A long, shallow
and perforated trough or dish will keep the grain in one place,
in shallow water near the bank, while preventing it from becoming
submerged in mud. Alternatively, the grain can be fed in
a shallow, non-perforated trough on land, with a little fresh
water on top. Where domestic ducklings are being introduced to
whole grains for the first time, it is a good idea to soften them
in water first, until they get used to it.
As
they get older, they soon get used to eating it dry, but it is
important that their drinker is always close by. Small breeds
may prefer to have kibbled (chopped) grains.
Wheat is, in many ways, the best all-round grain for ducks. Good
quality wheat is approximately 11% protein. Oats are high in oils
as well as protein and are therefore a useful winter feed. They
are not always popular on their own however, and may need to be
mixed in with wheat. In summer, the heat-producing qualities may
be too great and it is wise to reduce the amount, or not to feed
them at all, unless they are in a mixed grain ration from suppliers.
Maize is also high in oils and is usually a constituent of
mixed grain. Barley is a useful source of nutrients, but again,
on its own will tend to be left. The source of barley is also
important because some of the chemical sprays used on the
plants in some arable areas may be toxic to poultry. A letter
from a friend in the USA detailed how she had lost some chickens
in this way. Our practice, when it came to feeding grain, was
to feed wheat in the summer months and mixed grain from a feed
supplier in winter. The extra calories helped to compensate for
the additional demands made on the system during the cold months.
Poultry
grit and crushed oyster shell
It is important to make fine poultry grit available, particularly
where whole grains are given. It keeps the gizzard functioning
normally, allowing the grit to act as small millstones to grind
up the grains. Free-ranging ducks will often find their own source.
Crushed oyster shell is also recommended in the diet, especially
for egg producers and for those which are kept as breeding birds.
It helps to ensure that sufficient levels of calcium are available
for strong egg shells. Most feed stockists will sell both poultry
grit and crushed oyster shell. They can be placed in a shallow
container and left under cover so that the ducks can help themselves
as required.
Grazing
and greens
Most ducks will forage on grass and marginal areas, but some,
such as the Wigeon and Muscovy have a definite need to graze.
Areas of pasture will therefore need to made available if these
breeds are kept. Short-growing grasses are preferable to long
ones, and it may be necessary to mow the pasture to keep it short,
as well as to produce new, fresh growth. If a grassed area is
to be sown, a suitable mixture would contain Perennial Ryegrass,
Cocksfoot, Timothy, Fescues and White Clover.
Other greens that ducks are particularly fond of are Chickweed,
Stellaria media and vegetable garden greens such as lettuce and
cabbage. They will often eat plants in situ where they are growing
in patches, but if picked for them they should be shredded into
small pieces to prevent digestive blockages. Alternatively, bunches
can be suspended in an enclosure. It is easy to cause an imbalance
in the diet by too much feeding of one thing at the expense of
another. Our practice was to let the ducks browse for greens themselves,
so that they were only taking ‘standing’ plants. This
was foraging in the field, with access to the vegetable garden
in winter, when they did a useful job of weed clearance and pest
control for us. Their basic diet, however, was compound pellets
and grain.
Pond
feeding
Pond plants such as the floating duckweed, Lemna minor, are a
valuable source of food for dabbling ducks. Other plants provide
oxygen in the water as well as a habitat for insect larvae. These,
in turn may be eaten, as well as fish and even the occasional
frog. Reference has already been made to floating compound pellets
that are available for ornamentals, such as the Mergansers, as
well as to the practice of placing grain in perforated troughs
in the water for ornamentals in general.
Feeding
practice
Our practice, which always worked well, was to give a compound
ration of pellets in the morning, when the ducks were first let
out of their house. The pellets were placed in a long, wide and
heavy based feeder that they could not tip over.
Ducks’ bills are adapted for scooping so that the bill goes
into and under the food. It is important to avoid powdery foods
otherwise the nostrils can become clogged. If a compound mash
(powder) ration is given rather than a pelleted feed, it should
be moistened with water in order to produce a crumb consistency.
This can also clog the nostrils however, and I prefer to give
pellets so that this problem does not occur. The feeder also stays
cleaner, an important aspect in preventing disease. All feeders
should, of course, be cleaned on a regular basis.
Whatever form the food is in, there should be fresh water nearby.
Domestic ducks will often eat some food, then waddle over to the
drinker before returning for some more food. Having the feeder
and drinker close to each other therefore makes sense. In a run,
it is a good idea to have these placed on a slatted area so that
water falls through, otherwise there will soon be a marsh.
As soon as our ducks had eaten, they would rush off to the pond,
spending the rest of the day dabbling about there, and browsing
on the grass and in the hedges. In the afternoon, they were given
their grain ration on the grass. More pond dabbling and browsing
would ensue until dusk when they went into their house for the
night. If ducks are reluctant to go in, a little bit of grain
in the house soon makes them change their minds. Once they are
going in, however, it is as well to discontinue the practice,
in ease rats are attracted to the house and gnaw their way in.
Home feeds
Home-produced feed can be given, as long as it does not provide
too much of one thing at the expense of other nutrients, as referred
to earlier. Suitable ingredients include green or vegetable garden
foods such as nettles, lettuce, carrots, brassicas and alfalfa
(lucerne), etc. They should be well chopped or shredded so that
there are no items large enough to cause impaction. They must
be used fresh, with any leftovers disposed of before they become
mouldy. (The latter is a sure way of introducing disease).
Boiled potatoes (not green) mixed to a crumb consistency with
wheat meal or oatmeal is a good ration for table ducks, especially
with chopped greens added. Whole mixed grain is also appreciated
with this ration.
Fresh,
salt-free kitchen scraps are fine for the household flock, but
should not be given where table ducks or eggs are sold.