I take it that any breeder or prospective breeder of Pekin bantams will regard type as the first essential to consider; without type the Pekin loses nearly of its beauty. Correct type may be described as resembling a square block with the corners cut off - in other words, a ball....

The head of the breeding pen The points I require in a stud male to head a breeding pen are: short and broad in back, as full and broad in the saddle as possible, heavily feathered on the thighs and below the hock joint. The feathering around the hock joint is of special importance for so long as there is an abundance of feather in this area there is not likely to be a problem in toe feathering. The cushion should rise rise from the back, ending with the curve of the tail feathering.

The female side of the pen The stock hens should show curves, which are a feature of Pekins, still more plainly than the male. Both tail and hock feathers should be very soft in the quill, with a disposition to curl inwards. I always endeavor to counter-balance any defects in a stock fowl by the presence of good points in those of the opposite sex. The weight of the hen should not exceed 20oz

Better in second season Pekins, particularly the males, do not acquire their full shape or abundance of feather during the first year. The pullets often improve greatly in cushion, becoming more full and round.

Cleanliness an important point After the breeding pen is chosen, the bantams comprising the pen should be well dusted with insect powder, and their legs should be touched with camphorated oil to keep down the scaly leg. This should be done once monthly, whether it appears to be required or not. Some breeders trim the tails, vents and hocks of their stock Pekins. Providing they are kept clean and free from insects this practice is extremely unnecessary, as I have proved to my own satisfaction many times.

Guard against dampness Pekin chicks should be confined in a dry pen for the first two weeks, if possible in such a position that rays of sunshine can enter it. After a fortnight, the chicks should be allowed to run out on grass, but it is important to ensure that they are returned together pen before the sun sets. Should the grass get wet through the night the chicks should be kept in until it has dried. More Pekins die as a result of dampness than any other cause. The chicks are handicapped in the direction through possessing to much foot feathering. Once the foot feathering gets wet, it takes a considerable amount of time for it to dry.

Observe care in feeding Pekin chicks are hardy and will thrive on ordinary chick feed from the earliest stages. Avoid feeding mash during the growing period since it very often results in "sour - crop" I provide dry breadcrumbs for the first day the chicks are out of the nest, commencing with the chick mixture on the second day. The chicks receive as much as they can eat. I regard it as a mistake to allow many hours to elapse before the first feed is given. When feed is made available from the beginning it will be found that the chicks eat a little at a time, whereas hungry chicks certainly overload their crops. Finely cut spinach fed once weekly and a raw meat bone is provided once or twice a week for the youngsters to pick at. After six weeks I feed wheat to the the extent of of one-quarter of the total rashion, gradually increasing it until the chicks are weaned from the original chick mixture on a ration comprised of three parts of wheat and one part of cracked maize. The provision of plenty of food hastens maturity and early laying, which of course checks growth.

Chief factors in success I regard the provision of ample good food and cleanliness as the chief factors contributing to my success with Pekins. About every three weeks I dust my chicks with flee powder. I find this assists in the growth and luster of feather in addition to keeping down vermin. If one procures good stock at the commencement, success will depend on individual management.

Importance of weight Never waste time and entrance feed by benching a Pekin that is overweight. Success is much more likely to be ensured by keeping below the limit. My recent Brisbane National winning hen, which I regard as the best Pekin I have ever bred, weighs 18oz. My heaviest male bird weighs 23oz. The abundant plumage of these bantams make them appear hevier. A word to novice exhibitors: do be discouraged by adverse reports on an exhibit, particularly when a competent judge has seen fit to award it a prize. Study the standards visit the shows for yourself and mix with acknowledged good breeders and it will not be long before you acquire a sound knowledge of the finer points which reveal the difference between and ordinary specimen and a champion.

By H. Duncan